Getting Started
Working with clay is one of the oldest and most rewarding crafts in the world — whether you dream of making functional mugs and bowls, sculptural artwork, or just want a creative outlet that gets your hands messy. This guide will walk you through the basics and help you take your first steps into ceramics.
Methods of Making
There’s no single way to “do ceramics.” Most potters use one or more of these common methods:
Handbuilding
The most beginner friendly way to start. No wheel required — just your hands, a few simple tools, and some clay.
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Pinch pots: Start with a ball of clay and pinch it into a small bowl or cup.
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Coil building: Roll out long coils and stack them into vessels, smoothing as you go.
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Slab building: Roll out flat sheets of clay, cut shapes, and join them with slip. Great for boxes, trays, and simple sculptures.
Wheel Throwing
The iconic image of pottery. Using a pottery wheel, clay is centered and pulled into cylinders, bowls, mugs, and more. Wheel throwing requires practice and patience but is very rewarding once you get the hang of it.
Sculpting / Modeling
Clay can be carved, pressed into molds, or built up like a sculpture medium. This overlaps with handbuilding but leans more toward artistic or decorative pieces.
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💡 Tip: We strongly recommend beginners take a class at a local studio before trying to set up at home. It’s the best way to get hands-on experience with different methods, tools, and firings while learning proper safety and technique.
Tools Needed
You don’t need a huge studio or expensive equipment to try ceramics. A beginner kit can be very simple:
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Clay (see Clay 101 for help choosing the right type).
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Basic tools: needle tool, rib, sponge, wooden knife, trimming loop.
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A surface to work on (wood, canvas, or drywall board works well).
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Plastic bags for keeping clay damp between sessions.
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Note: If you’re curious about wheel throwing, many community studios rent wheel time or offer intro classes before you commit to buying one.
Drying & Firing Clay
Once you’ve made something, the next step is transforming it from soft clay into durable ceramic. That requires firing in a kiln. If you’d like us to fire your work, see our Firing Services page, or if you’re interested in buying your own kiln, check out our Kiln Buying Guide.
Drying (AKA Greenware)
Clay must dry fully before firing. Rushing this step causes cracks. Cover with plastic and let it slowly air dry until bone dry. Be careful with thick sections—clay thicker than about a thumb’s width can trap moisture and may explode in the kiln. For larger or solid pieces, hollow out thick areas or create them in layers to ensure even drying and safe firing.
Bisque Firing
The first firing (usually to Cone 04–06, or around 1830–1940°F) hardens the clay and prepares it to accept glaze.
Glaze Firing
After glazing, the piece goes through a second firing. The temperature depends on the clay and glaze chosen (see below).
Cones & Temperature
Ceramics firing temperatures are described in “cones.” A cone is a unit that measures heatwork (time + temperature) in a kiln.
Low Fire (Cone 06–04)
~1830–1940°F. Common for earthenware and bright commercial glazes. Lower stress on kilns, but the clay is more porous and less durable.
Mid Fire (Cone 5–6)
~2167–2232°F. The most popular range for studio potters. Produces strong stoneware, durable tableware, and a wide range of glaze effects.
High Fire (Cone 10)
~2345°F. Traditionally used for porcelain and stoneware in gas kilns. Beautiful reduction effects, but hard on electric kilns (not recommended for beginners or hobbyists).